Education
Mourvèdre
by Stephen Pavy
Okay, what to call this grape? Mourvèdre (also called monastrell or bobal or esparte in Spain where it originated) is a very important grape varietal in Spain where it is second only to Grenache (garnacha) in total acres planted. Over 250,000 acres of mourvèdre is planted in Spain compared to the 560 acres planted in California and 14,000 planted in France. Originally called mataro when it came to the New World in the mid- to late-1800s (after either the towns of Mourviedro in Valencia or Mataró in Cataluña), it was planted first in the sandy soils of Contra Costa County. How is all of that for confusing? Why can’t a grape have just one name?
Mourvèdre was particularly affected by the phylloxera infestation that came to Europe at the end of the 19th century. Until the phylloxera infestation, it had been the dominant varietal in the Provence region of France. After the infestation, mourvèdre proved very difficult to graft onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock. Compatible rootstocks were only developed after World War II and since then, the total plantings in the Rhône region have increased dramatically. So…part of the problem with all of the names is that this was, and is, a very important grape varietal to both Spain and France. Because of this, it was one of the grape varietals brought over to California (and Australia’s Barossa Valley, but I won’t go there) where it took on yet another name.
Mourvèdre is a late-ripening varietal that flourishes with hot summer temperatures. Mourvèdre is described as being deep colored and tannic, with spicy aromas and sometimes gamey, or rich meaty flavors in their youth. Typical aromas and flavors for mourvèdre can include thyme, clove, cinnamon, and black pepper with fruit flavors of dark cherry and rich blackberry fruit and other aromas of truffles and leather.
Our 2003 Pagani Mourvèdre (and the Pagani family calls this grape mataro) is a one of the biggest Pagani Mourvèdres to date. It boasts spicy cherry and blackberry flavors and is a great holiday wine. Think of all the meals that this medium weight wine can pair with in the next few months: Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years and other holiday celebrations. This wine will go wonderfully with grilled and roasted meats, root vegetables, mushrooms and dark fowl such as duck and turkey. This is a limited release wine available only at the winery and through the St. Francis Wine Clubs. Buy more soon – we usually sell out of this wine by early March, if it lasts that long.
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